1) Suspension arrière - Chief
2) Fuite aux embouts de canalisations d'huile
3) Enlever la rouille
5) Enlever la rouille Part II
1) Priming Oil Pump
2) Reducing Oil Change Mess
3) Torque Heads Without Removing Gas Tanks
3) Schebler Carb Applications
1) Assemblage de la boite de vitesse sur le moteur
1) Circuit Breaker Size
Some of the oil lines (tank to pump, pump to sump) being produced today have the incorrect ferrule for the fitting in the pump and tank. The angle, and the size of this ferrule, cause the oil fittings to "weep". The natural reaction is to tighten them down, which will eventually cause the threads in the fitting nut to strip.
To stop this leak, you can get some electrical shrink tubing and shrink this over the ferrule. Care must be taken to completely cover the ferrule, and the excess must be trimmed at the ends of the ferrule so not to interfere with the nut, and not to overhang the end of the tube.
The shrink tubing acts as a deforming gasket, and will effectively seal the
tubes. You do not need to excessivly tighten the fitting nuts when using this
sealing method. To much tighening will cut thru the shrink tubing and allow it
Question : I just finished lacing wheel for my chief 47. Is there some
tricks for trueing them without a trueing stand or is it impossible?
I take the axle and clamp it in a bench vise. I then get a piece of
coat-hanger wire, make a loop in one end, and screw it to the bench through the
loop with a sheet-metal screw and a flat washer. You can then bend the wire
around close to the rim for a pointer. You really need to put some preload on
the wheel bearings, so it's neat to have a piece of pipe with the ends machined
flat, that just fits over the axle, and is long enough that you can tighten the
nut down and preload the wheel bearings You can then put the pipe part in the
vise jaws, and not mung up the axle.
I used a Sears combo open/socket 5/8" wrench, the kind has an open end on one side and a swivel socket on the other.
I used a 2 foot long piece of 1/8" x 2" steel bar, and used some steel hose clamps to secure the wrench to the bar. At a 2 foot distance from the center of the socket, I cut a small dimple in the side.
Then, I have a 50 lb pull spring scale, sort of like a fish scale only much bigger and very accurate. Using that, I'd get the socket on the head bolts, back them off a little to break the bind, then tighten them up by using the spring scale out at the 2 foot dimple to register 25 lbs. 2 ft x 25 lbs = 50 ft/lbs.
You can get to all but three of the head bolts with the 5/8 wrench. For the other three, use a 5/8" spark plug socket, that has a hex top on it so you can use a wrench there. Mine's a SK, that uses a 3/4" open end wrench. You could then use the hose clamps and secure the 3/4 wrench to the bar and do the same process.
When I get around to it, I'm going to get a piece of 1" dia x 1/8" wall steel
tube, and weld the 5/8 socket wrench on one end and the 3/4" open end on the
other and use that as the "in-bike head torque tool".
Question : Does anyone have a complete list of Schebler carb applications
for 1929 and up? I have the 1928 Schebler service station manual that lists all
applications up to 1928 and a Linkert application list, but need the later
application list. I have a Schebler DLX 60 and a DLX 86 I'd like to know what
they are for
The 1932 and later Indian applications are listed in my book "Indian
Motorcycle Restoration Guide, 1932-1953." According to my sources, DLX 60 and
DLX 86 were not used on Indians. The nearest number (for an Indian application)
to DLX 60 is DLX 51, as listed in your reference for 1928 use. The nearest
numbers (for Indian applications) to DLX 86 are DLX 81 (1932 Chief) and DLX 98
(1933 Scout Pony). So it appears the DLX 86 was for a 1932 and/or 1933
Harley-Davidson. Harley didn't include the manufacturer's numbers (DLX entries,
for example) in their 1928-1932 parts book. Late-1933 and later Harleys were
fitted with Linkerts.
I just updated the trans installation sheet.
As John Welsh correctly noted in my earlier post, the shoulder which stops the kicker gear spring cupped washer on the trans mainshaft must protrude past the output gear surface. But, I've reccommend that it not stick out too far. The farther it protrudes, the lower the clutch hub is in the drum and occasionaly the hub is too low to get the top steel clutch plate firmly on the hub. So the trick seems to be, to use the thrust washers that not only allow the shoulder to pass the gear, but also allow all the steels to be used. If the top steel lifts off the spline, it's a big problem.
Question : One of the first things I did to my '48 when I got it was fuse
the elec. system. I put a 10 amp fuse in line with the plus side of the batt. I
have just finished installing a pair of spots on the bike, wired into the high
beam line. With the high beam on when I turn on the second spot I blow the fuse,
is 10 amp too small with these three lites on (its still a 6 volt system). Any
On every bike we restore, we place an inline automatic resetting 30amp
circuit breaker, on the negative side of the battery, to ground. This allows,
any short to be caught by the circuit breaker.
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